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‘Next In Fashion’ Reality Competition Will Bow On Netflix, Offering Designers $250K And Showcase - Deadline

NapierBaryike Ekim 29, 2021

‘Next In Fashion’ Reality Competition Will Bow On Netflix, Offering Designers $250K And Showcase - Deadline

‘Next In Fashion’ Reality Competition Will Bow On Netflix, Offering Designers $250K And Showcase - Deadline

Posted: 17 May 2019 07:00 AM PDT

Tan France (Queer Eye) and designer/model Alexa Chung will host Netflix's "Next In Fashion," a competition that pits designers in a battle to become the next big thing. No date has been set for the launch, but season one will have ten episodes.

"Next in Fashion" begins with eighteen designers who face challenges centering on a different trend or design style that has influenced the way the entire world dresses. Judges, including stylist Elizabeth Stewart and Instagram fashion guru Eva Chen are among judges who will evaluate their creations. More guest judges will be announced.

The winner will receive a $250,000 prize and an opportunity to debut their collection with luxury fashion retailer Net-a-Porter.

Next in Fashion is created and produced by theoldschool and is executive produced by Robin Ashbrook and Yasmin Shackleton with co-executive producer Adam Cooper.

Target x Vineyard Vines: the store’s many fashion collaborations, explained - Vox.com

Posted: 17 May 2019 08:40 AM PDT

A large sand sculpture of a whale greets people as they enter the white tent. In one corner, a lobster shack is doing a brisk business in beer and bite-size lobster rolls, as a roving waitress in oyster-shucking gloves offers bivalves out of a shiny metal bucket. At least two women are carrying oars over their shoulders, and several men are wearing navy blue blazers with gold buttons. The scene has all the trappings of an upscale clambake somewhere at a Martha's Vineyard beach house, and that's the point.

But this is not the beach, unless you can call a concrete plaza outside a shopping mall near the Hudson River a beach. The event, held in lower Manhattan last week, was an invite-only party meant to introduce and celebrate the launch of the Vineyard Vines for Target limited edition collection. (Priyanka Chopra even made an appearance.) The tent, outside the Brookfield Place mall, turned into a pop-up that New Yorkers could shop a week before the collection goes live at Target stores nationwide and online on Saturday, May 18. As with all these types of collaborations, when the merchandise is gone, it's gone.

The Vineyard Vines for Target "beach" pop-up in Manhattan.
Hagop Kalaidjian/BFA

Vineyard Vines is a preppy clothing brand. Its codes — plaid, stripes, prep school ties — trick you into thinking it came over on the Mayflower. The Vineyard Vines Target collection comprises some 300 items ranging in price from $2 to $120. It's a broad range of products, from clothing to dishes to beach chairs. Garments feature nautical stripes, pastel colors, and beachy themes. A navy gingham shirtdress in this collection costs $35; a similar full-price version would set you back almost $100. And yes, there's even a decorative oar (the one people were lugging around), which costs $69. It has Vineyard Vines' smiling pink whale logo painted on it, along with the brand's tagline: "Every day should feel this good."

Vineyard Vines is not high fashion, but it's understandable, aspirational, and potentially unaffordable to a swath of people, which makes it a perfect Target collaborator. Target has done more than 80 apparel collaborations dating back to the early 2000s, often punching well above its weight. It's collaborated with established, well-respected fashion labels like Alexander McQueen and Proenza Schouler and those now lost to time, like Patrick Robinson and Justin Timberlake's William Rast. In recent years, the Missoni and Lilly Pulitzer collections took it to a new level of chaos, crashing servers and causing in-store stampedes. Pieces regularly end up on the secondary market of eBay.

A Vineyard Vines for Target oar plus other merchandise.
Target

These collections give Target shoppers a chance to own a garment from a brand they might not be able to afford otherwise. The smaller brands, in turn, get a huge bump in exposure and advertising they could never fund on their own. It makes sense that these collaborations happen at fast-fashion retailers like H&M, but it's notable that a big-box store like Target really pioneered the concept on a large scale. After all, where else can you buy "designer" fashion alongside commodities like tampons and light bulbs? Target has spent almost 20 years perfecting the art of selling FOMO. It's had some spectacular successes and its fair share of duds, but the model has persisted.

Why Target started collaborating with fashion brands

Target has always tried to cultivate a more upscale image than its discount big-box retailer competitors like Walmart and Kmart, and it's mostly succeeded. Since the 1990s, customers have affectionately called it the French-inflected "Tarjay" to convey fanciness. (Its original founders claim that customers have called it that since the 1960s.) Regardless, the name has hung on, made clear when President Trump, probably not a customer, greeted the CEO of Target at a recent White House meeting with that alternative pronunciation of the company's name.

Target's first highbrow collaboration was with the architect and designer Michael Graves in 1999, who designed home goods for the retailer until 2012. But Isaac Mizrahi really gave the company concrete proof that the concept could work for apparel. It partnered with the then-popular designer in 2003 and the collection was an immediate hit, earning Target a reported $300 million a year for the five years it was sold.

Customers love the concept because it gives them an opportunity to own a piece of luxury, or, at least, a luxurious name. Amanda Nicholson, a professor of retail practice at Syracuse University, compares the high-low collaboration concept to what perfumers had done decades earlier. Can't buy a Chanel jacket? You could probably afford Chanel No. 5 perfume.

"You get the ability to participate in the dream of a designer purchase without the designer price point," she says. The fabric quality and fit is nowhere near the same, but there is still a bit of designer magic there.

For Target and for the rotating cast of designers, it's primarily a marketing enterprise. It's a point of differentiation for Target — look, fancy designers trust us! — and a way to get shoppers into their stores, says Nicholson. (Target declined an interview for this story.) The collections are so limited that they aren't a big financial risk; the company likely doesn't make that much money on them. The point is to get people talking.

Very limited-edition collections tap into a fundamental human desire: We want what is hard to get. If Target can convince someone to get in their car and drive to a store in hopes of scoring a cute salad bowl with lobsters on it, that's a win. Maybe they'll buy one of Chrissy Teigen's "Cravings" collection pans while they're there too, or a faux-antique kitchen scale from "Hearth and Hand" by Chip and Joanna Gaines, or even just a 40-pack of Charmin. People expect Target to do this now, and it gets people talking and shopping.

Designers often have very tight marketing budgets and a niche customer base, so getting their name and designs in front of a national pool of customers is invaluable and not something most can afford on their own. And since it's a temporary thing, there's little risk of brand dilution. Target does press and social media blitzes to create hype. "[Brands] completely broaden their brand awareness. And there's a possibility that some younger customers will grow up and be able to afford the real thing one day," says Nicholson.

The high fashion days: 2005 to 2011

After Isaac Mizrahi, Target went all in on elevated design and launched a collection with the Italian house Fiorucci in 2005. In 2006, the series was formally dubbed the "Go International" collection and the first collaboration was with British designer Luella Bartley. The collection featured plaid dresses, bold striped jackets, and lots of hearts and cherry prints.

It must have done well, because in 2007 Target debuted collections with five designers, including fashion darlings Proenza Schouler, cementing its fashion cred forever. Five more followed in 2008, then four in 2009, including the LA-based Rodarte, another high-concept label.

Instagram didn't launch until 2010, so the job of hyping these collections fell largely to an engaged and enthusiastic group of individual bloggers and fashion blogs that also launched around the same time, like the Cut, Refinery29, Nitrolicious, and Fashionista (disclosure: I was a writer and editor there for several years), as well as the digital arms of traditional print magazines. Lookbooks were uploaded and exclaimed over, and Target hosted launch parties in New York City for editors and bloggers to attend. It also did traditional TV and print advertising. The word spread reliably for each collection.

McQueen (2009), Proenza Schouler (2011 reissue as modeled by Chrissy Teigen), and Rodarte (2009).
Target

"I remember there being a frenzy around certain ones that had pop culture significance, like Alexander McQueen. You don't have to be entrenched in the fashion industry to know how important and influential he was," says Alyssa Vingan Klein, the editor-in-chief of Fashionista and a 10-year veteran of digital fashion journalism. And that was in 2009, a year before the designer's death and two years before Kate Middleton got married in a dress designed by his successor at the label, Sarah Burton. "Back in the day, the Target launches were insane. [One] was a carnival theme, with rides and snack bars. They spent so much money," she says.

In 2010, Target did a collection with the British heritage fabric-maker Liberty of London, and it was the first really expansive collection that included a significant home decor selection. In 2011, Target said goodbye to the name Go International, sending it off with a 34-piece dress collection of some of the greatest hits from past collections.

Then came Missoni.

The post-Missoni era: 2011 to now

Missoni for Target coffee cup and saucer set.
Target

In 2011, Target announced a collection with the Italian design house Missoni. Even if you had no idea that Missoni is best known for its zigzag pattern sweaters, you sure could recognize how appealing that stack of colorful coffee cups was. The collection was extensive, including apparel for the whole family, dishes, luggage, and even a bike. Famous Jessicas Alba and Simpson had a Twitter conversation expressing their desire for that bike, as documented by the New York Times at the time.

The day of the launch was, as Vingan Klein accurately terms it, "a shitshow." Stores sold out within minutes, and the website crashed multiple times for long stretches, causing many shoppers to lose the items in their carts. Target said at the time that the traffic outpaced that of any Black Friday or Cyber Monday in its history. It dealt with the fallout and bad publicity for weeks, but some analysts considered it a savvy use of "intentional scarcity."

In the ensuing years, Target had a dud with a non-cohesive collection it did with the upscale department store Neiman Marcus. Then in 2012 and 2013, respectively, it did collections with New York designers Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung. Vingan Klein suspects the two were primed for success thanks to a high-profile admirer: first lady Michelle Obama, who wore a Jason Wu gown to both of her husband's inaugural balls and a day dress from the designer to Trump's inauguration. She wore Gurung at several public events as well, so the names were already familiar. The Jason Wu collection, full of ladylike fit-and-flare dresses, was particularly buzzy.

Michelle Obama (with husband) wearing Jason Wu on her last day at the White House in January 2017; Jason Wu x Target, 2012.
Jim Watson/AFP; Target

After 2012, grumbling about collaboration fatigue started. Target was far from the only retailer doing it at this point. H&M's first collection with Karl Lagerfeld in 2004 also spawned a successful run of collabs annually at the fast-fashion chain. Other retailers like Kohl's and Uniqlo joined in, and there were one-offs like Nike x Levi's, not to mention many collaborations by streetwear brands like Supreme.

In 2014, Target's sales slumped, likely due to mounting competition from Amazon, prompting Money to snark that no one was calling it "Tarjay" anymore. A few smaller collections came and went, and then in 2015, Target brought out the big, girly guns.

A Lilly Pulitzer for Target nail file.
Target

Lilly Pulitzer, whose bright florals are a socialite-wannabe mainstay, rivaled the scope and enthusiasm of the Missoni collection. Lilly fans stayed up all night, but once again, the website experienced glitches and delays. Many people, including Kristin "Charlotte from Sex and the City" Davis, weren't able to snag anything:

Lines snaked through parking lots, and once again, the collection sold out almost instantly.

In 2016, Target hoped to replicate that with Marimekko, known for its colorful geographic prints, but the response was tepid. Collections with Hunter boots and Victoria Beckham (which included a girls' collection) followed. Which brings us to now.

Why Vineyard Vines is a fit

Syracuse's Nicholson chalks up Missoni and Lilly Pulitzer's successes to the fact that those brands have a recognizable aesthetic, which also bodes well for Vineyard Vines. "It's a very translatable look to multiple merchandise categories. You can make a teacup look like Lilly Pulitzer or Vineyard Vines, but I'm not sure you could make a teacup look like Jason Wu," she says.

Vineyard Vines for Target women's clothes.
Target

Target has found its financial footing again with more robust sales in the past few years, largely due to a focus on its in-store private labels. The retailer doesn't do as many collaborations as in its heyday but seems to be choosing the ones it does more strategically now. It is obviously looking for a repeat of its Missoni and Lilly Pulitzer glory here. Vineyard Vines is easy for shoppers to understand; it is not Proenza Schouler. It is, as Vox pop culture reporter and New Englander Rebecca Jennings tells me, "aspirational in a bluntly obvious way. You don't have to think too hard about what it's saying; you get it immediately."

Vineyard Vines was founded in Martha's Vineyard in 1998 by two brothers, Shep and Ian Murray, who left corporate jobs on Madison Avenue to make ties. The vibe is preppy, and loudly so. They told Racked in 2015, "We use icons of what we call the 'good life': boats, Nantucket, golf, tennis. It's very classic American — prep school meets Wall Street." Its grinning whale logo, the same one on the oar, appears on everything from tie prints to pockets, the equivalent of the Lacoste alligator or the Polo pony.

Its premise is simple: almost a caricature of moneyed (white) Americana, with a $30 upcharge added for good measure. But it resonates beyond typical preppy enclaves, appealing to everyone from dads in the Midwest to middle schoolers in Dallas. And it's summery, just in time for beach and picnic season.

Plus, its prints look good on a salad bowl, and nothing is more American than that.

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Designer phone cases you can wear are a new men's fashion trend - Business Insider

Posted: 17 May 2019 09:23 AM PDT

Like millions of other people, I keep my smartphone with me at pretty much all times, but I've never felt like I was "wearing" it like I would clothing or jewelry. I've always treated my phone more like a tool than an accessory, though there's no shortage of colorful phone designs and unique cases that show just how much effort people can put into their phone's aesthetic.

But as The Wall Street Journal reports, the world of fashion is starting to rethink the way we carry our phones, creating lavish leather carrying cases and designer pouches to go with the latest in high-end looks. Journal reporter Jacob Gallagher noticed wearable phone cases from designers like Prada, Dior Men, and Palms Angels on the runway in the past year.

Most of these designer cases and bags are worn as necklaces, with a lanyard holding the phone close to the wearer's chest. Some have a transparent window to make checking your phone easy, but the most involved designs are encased in leather and other delicate materials that keep your phone completely covered.

With the size of smartphones steadily increasing, there's certainly no shame in wanting an easy, fashionable way to carry your phone.

But the designer wearable case movement seems more interested in luxury than utility. Take a look:

Two major fashion houses differ on what should be minimum age of models - NBC News

Posted: 17 May 2019 03:28 PM PDT

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By David K. Li

Famed French fashion company LVMH said Friday it won't change its minimum age requirement for models in the wake of a rival vowing to not hire anyone for the catwalk who isn't at least 18.

LVMH — which produces luxury brands Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Christian Dior, Berluti, Givenchy and many others — said age requirements are artificial lines that are not as important as the overall treatment of models.

LVMH said it hires a relatively small number of 16- and 17-year-old models, typically less than 20 percent of those it hires for its exhibits.

"Young models aged 16 to 18 remain largely in the minority in the LVMH Group's fashion shows," according to a company statement issued on Friday. "What matters is not so much the age as the conditions under which models work, regardless of age."

Earlier in the week, Kering — the French umbrella of high-end labels such as Gucci, Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen — said it will not hire any models younger than 18 for its shows beginning in the 2020-21 fashion season.

"In our view, the physiological and psychological maturity of models aged over 18 seems more appropriate to the rhythm and demands that are involved in this profession," Kering's Chief Sustainability Officer Marie-Claire Daveu said in a statement on Wednesday.

"We are also aware of the role-model element that images produced by our Houses can represent for certain groups of people."

Nearly two years ago, Kering and LVMH had agreed to a "Model Charter," which set 16 as the minimum age of models. The agreement also set employment standards for those younger models, who would be prohibited from working after 10 p.m. and must have a parent or guardian nearby.

LVMH on Friday said that the 2019 pact has been effective: "The LVMH Group, for its part, maintains the original commitments in the Model Charter, which has been unanimously adhered to by its brands. This charter has resulted in major progress for the well-being and health of models."

David K. Li

David K. Li is a breaking news reporter for NBC News.

5 Takeaways From Fashion's Sustainability Summit | BoF Professional, This Week in Fashion | BoF - The Business of Fashion

Posted: 17 May 2019 08:45 AM PDT

Hello BoF Professionals, your exclusive 'This Week in Fashion' briefing is ready, with members-only analysis on the key topic of the week and a digest of the week's top news.

More than 1,000 industry executives and influential figures descended on Copenhagen this week to debate fashion's thorniest social and environmental problems. There's a lot still to be done.

The fashion industry is one of the world's biggest polluters, and has struggled to find ways to tackle its environmental impact as clothes have got cheaper and more disposable. Moreover, it continues to rely on the labour of mostly young, female workers, including many who face abuse by their employers, and many more who are not paid enough to provide for themselves and their families.

Here are the key takeaways from the industry's biggest annual sustainability gathering:

Fashion Isn't Moving Fast Enough

While this week was marked by a flurry of new commitments by brands — including Kering SA, Tommy Hilfiger-owner PVH Corp and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE — stepping up their efforts to reduce their environmental and social impact, the pace of change is still not going fast enough to offset fashion's negative impact on the planet — and we're running out of time.

"The health of the planet is not only headed dramatically in the wrong direction, but it's happening exponentially faster," said Ryan Gellert, Patagonia's general manager in Europe, the Middle East and Africa.

The summit was marked by an undertone of urgency, after new research showed fashion's progress towards a more responsible way of operating is slowing. That's a big problem for efforts to curb its climate impact. The industry accounted for 1.7 billion tons of carbon dioxide emissions in 2015, according to data from McKinsey & Company published in 2016. If it doesn't change the way it operates, that level could increase by nearly 80 percent by 2025, assuming the majority of emerging markets achieve Western levels of consumption.

"We need to pick up pace," Eva Kruse, the chief executive of summit host The Global Fashion Agenda said in her opening remarks. "The speed is not moving fast enough."

Fashion Is Getting Political

The apparel industry's impact on the environment is rising up governments' agendas, and companies are looking to play a bigger role in influencing policy.

Fashion has historically flown under the radar of many politicians and, until recently, brands have avoided talking about politically-sensitive issues that could alienate some customers. But now a growing number of brands see taking a stand on certain issues as the key to getting younger customers. According to BoF and McKinsey's latest State of Fashion report, nine out of ten Generation Z consumers believe companies have a responsibility to address environment and social issues.

The health of the planet is not only headed dramatically in the wrong direction, but it's happening exponentially faster.

Kering's Chief Executive Francois-Henri Pinault used the conference to announce that the French President has called on him to unite a broad coalition of industry players behind a set of long-term sustainability goals ahead of August's G7 summit in Biarritz.

On Tuesday, five of the industry's leading trade bodies banded together to launch a policy manifesto laying out ways to make fashion more circular — part of broader plans to step up government lobbying efforts. Meanwhile, the French government has said it is pursuing a ban to stop companies destroying unsold goods — a sign of the growing regulatory scrutiny on the industry.

Sustainability Is Good Business

Environmental and social initiatives have often been relegated to companies' corporate responsibility arms, but progressive brands are increasingly seeing operating responsibly as simply good business. While upfront investments are needed to shift the industry's way of operating, there's a growing awareness that many of these have a significant pay off in the long term.

"There's plenty of evidence to show sustainable companies enjoy better performance and sustainability is a business opportunity," Kering's Pinault told the conference.

Fashion Needs to Disrupt to Clean Up

Despite the many new initiatives announced during this week's summit, the fashion industry still doesn't have the tools it needs to move towards a more sustainable business model.

For instance, while Kering has previously set a target to reduce its environmental impact by 40 percent by 2025, at the moment it only has solutions to do half of that, Pinault said. Companies need to move towards new, more circular ways of operating and mobilise capital to invest more in the technologies that will be needed to achieve that.

"We should exert leadership to say this is what we're trying to solve for," said Michael Kobori, Levi Strauss & Co's vice president for sustainability. "We as an industry should exercise that power."

There are also opportunities to mobilise tech to help solve the industry's problems. For instance, Stella McCartney and Google announced this week that they have teamed up to try and solve fashion's environmental data gap.

The Consumer Is the "Elephant in the Room"

Even though there's increasing demand from consumers for brands to operate more sustainably, that's still not what's driving their purchasing decisions. In fact, for the average consumer, the biggest considerations remain style and price, "everything else is way down on the scale," said PVH Chief Executive Emanuel Chirico.

To move things forward, brands need to be more vocal in educating their customers on their initiatives, while continuing to push for change.

"It's on us as an industry to drive this change," the GFA's Kruse said. "We cannot expect consumers to drive this forward."

THE NEWS IN BRIEF

FASHION, BUSINESS AND THE ECONOMY

Source: BoF Design team

Kering tapped by French president to unite brands behind sustainability goals. French President Emmanuel Macron has called on the chief executive of luxury giant Kering SA to bring together a group of brands to set unified sustainability goals for the sector ahead of the G7 summit in Biarritz this August. Around fashion's annual sustainability gathering in Copenhagen, Kering has announced a flurry of new initiatives including a new target to push for stricter animal welfare standards and an extended commitment to protect young models by pledging to only hire people who are over 18.

Richemont profit misses estimates on online investment costs. The luxury group reported full-year operating profit that missed analyst estimates as the company consolidated its acquisitions of online platforms YNAP and Watchfinder. Earnings climbed 5 percent to €1.94 billion ($2.2 billion) in the 12 months through March. Analysts expected €2.05 billion. The operating margin slipped to 13.9 percent, the lowest in more than a decade.

Burberry profit steady awaiting new collections in stores. The British fashion house reported broadly flat full-year revenue (down 1 percent to £2.72 billion, or $3.49 billion) and operating profit (consistent at £438 million, or $562 million). The brand said it expected similar this year as it sets the foundations for growth with more products by Riccardo Tisci in stores. Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti said customer reactions to Tisci's first collection had been "very encouraging" since it hit stores in February.

Ralph Lauren turnaround sticks as profit beats highest estimate. The apparel maker's profit and revenue exceeded expectations, a sign that Chief Executive Patrice Louvet's efforts to boost profitability are paying off. As Ralph Lauren pushes away from off-price retail towards direct-to-consumer online sales, it has been partnering with social media influencers and celebrities in a bid to appeal to younger consumers. Still, its home market continues to face issues with North America's same-store sales at brick-and-mortar stores falling 7 percent.

China's retail sales growth falls to 16-year low. As the trade war with the United States escalates, China has reported weaker growth in retail sales and industrial output for April, adding pressure on Beijing to roll out more stimulus. Clothing sales fell for the first time since 2009, suggesting Chinese consumers were growing more worried about the economy even before a US tariff hike heightened stress on the country's struggling exporters. Overall retail sales rose 7.2 percent in April from a year earlier, the slowest pace since May 2003.

Macy's climbs after bouncing back strong from tough holiday. The department store surged after reporting sales improvements, including at its brick-and-mortar locations. Macy's said its strategic turnaround plan is on track to deliver "long-term profit growth." Same-store sales for owned and licensed stores gained 0.7 percent last quarter, the sixth consecutive gain and better than analyst projections. Macy's also said it had another quarter of double-digit online sales growth.

Edie Parker expands into luxury cannabis accessories. The fashion boutiques of New York's prim Madison Avenue now have a different kind of high-end neighbour: a head shop. Handbag label Edie Parker is expanding its business into cannabis with a new collection of smoking accessories called Flower by Edie Parker. Launched in 2010, the fashion brand is coveted for its vintage-inspired clutches and handbags and branched out into home goods in 2016. The new cannabis line will be an extension of homeware.

France seeks to stop fashion brands from destroying unsold goods. The French government is pursuing a plan to stop companies from destroying unsold items, French Deputy Ecology Minister Brune Poirson said at Copenhagen's fashion and sustainability conference. While mass-market brands often mark down goods until shelves are cleared, luxury labels have long preferred to burn or bury unsold items in landfills rather than risk brand image damage from discounting. The pledge comes after Burberry said last year it would end the practice after it was revealed that the company destroyed almost £29 million worth of unsold goods in 2017.

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

Source: @kylieskin via Instagram

Kylie Jenner's skincare range could be her savviest business move yet. Jenner's new skincare line, Kylie Skin, is set to launch online on May 22. The brand is an offshoot of the 21-year-old billionaire's Kylie Cosmetics company (valued at $800 million in 2018) and will start by selling six products, all under $30. While colour cosmetics are still popular with young people, the category is facing stagnation, including at Kylie Cosmetics: sales of Jenner's famed $29 lip kits dipped 35 percent in 2018. On the other hand, sales of skincare products in the US grew by 13 percent in 2018, hitting $5.6 billion. Jenner has also reportedly filed trademarks for Kylie Hair and Kylie Baby this week.

Coppertone has a new owner. Beiersdorf has bought Bayer's Coppertone brand of sun-care products for $550 million, bolstering its line of skin creams that already includes the Nivea brand. The deal comes at a time when scrutiny of sunscreens is heating up. The US Food and Drug Administration has called for more testing of their ingredients given how much they're absorbed through the skin, and last summer Hawaii banned some sunscreens with ingredients that could harm coral reefs.

PEOPLE

Source: @jamescharles via Instagram

James Charles, from 'coverboy' to cancelled. The beauty internet sensation is at the centre of an internet storm and has lost over 3 million Youtube subscribers in a matter of days. Tati Westbrook, 37, a Youtube beauty vlogger and a former mentor to Charles, posted a video saying she no longer wants anything to do with him due to an Instagram ad that Charles posted for a rival vitamin company to her own. She went on to say that she was upset with Charles's attempt to "trick a straight man into thinking he's gay, yet again," at her most recent birthday celebration.

LVMH appoints company veteran to lead Fenty label. Véronique Gébel has been appointed to lead Fenty, LVMH and Rihanna's fashion venture, BoF has learned. She joined LVMH in 1997 and worked for several brands including Givenchy, Fendi and most recently Louis Vuitton. Since 2007, she was director of women's and men's ready-to-wear at the group's flagship brand. The executive will run the new label spanning ready-to-wear and accessories, including shoes, sunglasses and jewellery, reporting to LVMH executive committee member Jean-Baptiste Voisin.

David Beckham appoints independent brand and commercial team. Brand Beckham has entered a new phase. The footballer turned international celebrity parted ways with former business partner XIX Entertainment to form a new independent brand and commercial management team. Occupying a new London-base, the team will work with Beckham's current manager, David Gardner, who has held the role for the past decade and will head up the new venture as managing director.

MEDIA AND TECHNOLOGY

Condé Nast offloads two titles. The publisher of The New Yorker, Vanity Fair and Vogue has sold Golf Digest to Discovery Inc and Brides to Dotdash this week, as it sheds titles amid the decline of the print media business. The terms of either deal were not disclosed but Golf Digest reportedly went for $35 million. Brides had been on the market since last year as part of a cost-cutting campaign, and Dotdash was among the early suitors. The online brand plans to scrap the 85-year-old print magazine and redesign Brides.com.

Alibaba beats estimates as personalised recommendations boost sales. Alibaba Group Holding Ltd's posted quarterly revenue and earnings that topped analyst estimates as personalised recommendations drive consumer spending across its shopping sites. Revenue at China's biggest e-commerce company rose 51 percent to 93.5 billion yuan ($13.6 billion) in the three months ending in March, above the 91.7 billion-yuan average of analyst estimates.

460,000 Uniqlo online accounts accessed in Japan hack. Fast Retailing Co, Asia's largest retailer, said hackers may have gained access to the personal information of about half a million users of its Uniqlo and GU brand e-commerce portals. Hackers accessed at least 460,000 accounts registered on Fast Retailing's Japanese shopping websites, the company said Monday. Users' personal information, purchase history and parts of credit card numbers may have been accessed. The hack occurred from April 23 to May 10, and the company is still investigating.

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